Paxos Island is one of the best-kept secrets in Greece, and we found the most interesting local to show us around the magnificent island. Sailing around Paxos with his boat, the repatriated Greek-American also shares his long life’s philosophy .
Born and raised in Paxos, “Chicago,” as Yiannis Grammatikos is popularly known—due to having spent twenty years in the US city—delights in rediscovering his hometown in Greece. This includes his school, luscious Greek island food, and scenic, Neptune blue sea.
The first location “Chicago” notes in our tour is the Port of Gaios. This is the capital town of Paxos and offers a picturesque setting with pastel-hued houses and narrow lanes that lead to a main square. The natural harbor is shaped by the offshore island Agios Nikolaos and Paxos itself.
Once a boat is moored, those on board will feel like they are in the middle of the market square, with life buzzing right before them.
“Lakka, one of the three main villages of Paxos located around four miles north of Gaois,” says Grammatikos. The village, where he also operates a boutique hotel, is surrounded by two headlands that create a natural circular bay. It is sheltered by verdant hills and lush green trees that also block the strong winds and provide enchanting scenery.
During this journey to Lakka, Chicago points out a red school, telling us that he used to go to school there. He mentioned that, when he used to visit from the US, his kids would go to school there, too. “The island I know very well, as well as my house. Every stone yes,” he says.
Gaios, is bigger than Lakka and is good for shopping, nightlife, bars, and entertainment. “Paxos is a lovely island, very quiet,” he tells us. “It has everything you need. It’s near Corfu, it’s just one hour away. There are only villas on the island, there are no big hotels or anything like that. The people there are very polite.”
The history of Paxos Island, Greece
“In the 1950s and 60s, before the tourists came, it was all poor people living on the island,” notes Grammatikos. He says all the young people left the island and went off to different places like Germany, the US, Canada, and Australia.
He adds, “Now people are doing much better, and many who left have returned. I am one of them.”
Paxos is a historical island that has been inhabited since prehistoric times. According to tradition, the Phoenicians were the first settlers on Paxos, and it is believed that the name “Paxos” originated from the Phoenician word “Pax,” meaning “trapezoidal.”
As a group with the nearby island of Antipaxos and adjoining islets, it is also known by the plural form, Paxi or Paxoi.
All you need to know about Paxos
Paxos is only seven by three miles. Hence, it can easily be explored on foot or by bike, car, or boat. It is an island in the Ionian Sea, situated just south of Corfu.
Gaios is the capital of Paxos and the largest town on the island. Most of the island’s 2,300 residents live in Gaios, but it is still relatively small and quaint with Venetian architecture, a maze of side streets and a pedestrianized square on the seafront.
The port of Gaios receives ferries, hydrofoils, the sea taxi, and the hydro plane from Corfu as well as its share of sailboats.
Sea taxis and caiques are available from the harbor front of Gaios to take you to the island of Anti-Paxos or Mongonissi. Both offer sandy beaches with shallow waters and tavernas overlooking the sea.
Loggos is the smallest resort, a mesmerizing fishing village with beautiful beaches on the coastline on either side of the harbor. Marmaris Beach is shaded in parts by overhanging olive trees. Further down, Kipos and Kipiadi with crystal clear waters are currently only accessible by foot or boat.
Monodendri is a wide stretch of beach between Loggos and Lakka and has windsurfing and canoes with a beach taverna. It is accessible by car followed by a steep walk down to the beach. There are organized boat trips to the west coast and its caves, and these are run from Gaios, Loggos, and Lakka.
Lakka is on the north tip surrounding a large harbor where flotillas and gin palaces can be seen mooring. It has two main beaches with a beach taverna, and other beaches are accessible by foot over to the west coast.
Paxos is served by Corfu airport. A transfer is required by sea or hydroplane to get to the island. There are various companies offering low cost flights during the summer months. Prices and availability change constantly.
During winter months, there are scheduled flights via Athens.
Paxos has a Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and mild winters. If you’re a sunseeker, the best time to visit Paxos is between June and August.
The hottest month of the year is July with an average daily maximum of 91°F (33°C) and an average low of 71°F (22°C).
The coolest month of the year is January with an average daily maximum of 57°F (14°C) and an average low of 42°F (6°C). You should be able to enjoy the beach with sea temperatures averaging 73°F (23°C) or above from June to October.
Where to stay
While the island does not feature any big international hotels, there is a wide variety of boutique hotels as well as many luxurious villas for rent on different online platforms.